It is impossible to achieve high-quality and prolonged flowering of roses in the garden without fertilizing. Careful care is required for flowers throughout the entire period of active vegetation. How to feed roses at home, as well as what are the norms of fertilizer consumption, read below.

Why early spring feeding is needed

With the advent of heat, roses are freed from shelter and a planned pruning is performed. In the spring, not only plant organisms, but also various bacteria, insects, their larvae in the soil activate their activities. During this period, roses need fertilizers not only to nourish and stimulate growth. Most of the mineral and organic substances that make up the fertilizing, play the role of disinfectants that increase the immunity of plants weakened after winter.

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To determine which element is missing for the plants, you can by external signs:

1. Nitrogen - is responsible for building green mass. Leaves are formed narrower, thinner, if this element is not enough. The color of the greens is much lighter than usual. Shoots become thin, often there is deformation. In dark varieties of roses during flowering, buds are several tones lighter. Plants are weakened, often sick.
2. Phosphorus - Responsible for laying buds and developing the ground part. With its deficiency, growth retardation is observed. In the flowering phase, phosphorus deficiency can cause bud dropping. The leaves become smaller, acquire a bluish tint on the outside, reddish brown on the inside. Leaf plates lose their luster. Shoots are deformed, many sprouts without kidneys are formed.
3. Potassium - is responsible for the laying of flower buds, the immunity of the plant organism during the flowering period. With its lack of newly formed leaves acquire a reddish tint, the old turn yellow, dry and fall off. The buds are small, they may not ripen at all.
4. Calcium - a lack of calcium is most often observed in conjunction with a lack of potassium. With its deficiency, shoots are deformed, leaves are formed twisted. Old leaf blades turn yellow and die.
5. Magnesium - the lack of an element becomes noticeable primarily on old sheet plates. Between the veins yellow spots are visible, the edges remain green. Most often, magnesium deficiency is associated with increased acidity of the soil.
6. Iron - deficiency of an element is more noticeable on young leaves. Their surface acquires a yellow hue, veins remain green. With a strong lack of iron, the leaves become white, do not last long on the shoots.
7. Manganese - The symptoms of deficiency are similar to iron deficiency, but primarily the old leaf plates are affected.
8. Boron - the foliage grows smaller. There is deformation and thickening of the sheet plates. The growth points of the main shoots die off, resulting in the formation of many thinned additional ones. Flowers are also formed deformed. Their petals are shortened and thickened.
9. Copper - the deficiency of this element is manifested by the drooping of the leaf plates, the yellowing of their tips. There is a withering away of the growth point with the formation of a large number of lateral thinned shoots.

With a severe malnutrition, plants are often affected by diseases and pests, and then die.

When fertilizing under roses in spring

Roses begin to be fertilized after spring pruning, when new shoots grow, and leafy buds swell. Feeding begins only with 2 years of life of the plant on the site. The fertilizer application scheme is as follows:

• before the start of active vegetation;
• at the stage of the presence of buds;
• after every wave of flowering.

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How organic and mineral fertilizers act on plants

Organic fertilizers are made up of natural elements. These include:

• all types of manure - enrich the soil with necessary microelements, have a disinfecting effect, contain a large amount of fresh nitrogen;
• peat silt - increase soil friability, but are quickly depleted;
• siderates - contribute to the enrichment of the soil with oxygen and nutrients, are equal in value to manure, but do not have an oxidizing effect;
• various organic waste - eggshells, peeling fruits, vegetables;
• bones, wood ash, sawdust - nourish the soil, increase friability, have a disinfecting effect, protect against pests, are natural deoxidants;
• fresh greens or rotted (compost) - nutritionally equivalent to manure, but trace elements in the composition are presented in a more accessible form.

Organics contains a complex of various elements of animal and plant origin. It is used in autumn, spring and summer in accordance with the phases of vegetation and the age of the plants. It has a long period of action. Improves soil quality. It decomposes and releases mineral elements. In the process of decomposition of organics, the soil is enriched with carbon dioxide, which plants need for photosynthesis.

Organics also contribute to the formation of full-fledged soil microflora, contributing to the reproduction of certain bacteria living in symbiosis with plant roots. Many elements in organics are in a form inaccessible to plants, and some of them, such as nitrogen, quickly evaporate during overheating. Mineral fertilizing can be complex or single-component. They are created artificially.

Important! Any nitrogen-containing fertilizing (organic or mineral) is applied only in the spring at the beginning of the growing season. Later periods of nitrogen application are fraught with increased development of green mass to the detriment of flowering.

Their introduction makes it possible to nourish the plants with the component that they most need at a certain stage of the life cycle. The action of mineral fertilizers is accelerated - after application, after a day, it is possible to restore the lack of the necessary element. Mineral fertilizing positively affects the ability of plants to absorb water and vitamins from the soil, their absorption by roots and leaves.

Regarding the composition, there are:

• nitrogen fertilizers - are introduced before the start of the growing season;
• phosphoric - are introduced at the stage of bud formation;
• potash - at the stage of bud formation and throughout the flowering period.

The most correct option is to use mineral and organic fertilizers in turn.

Spring fertilizing roses with mineral fertilizers

Fertilizing with minerals must be done correctly. Exceeding the dosage or introducing in an inappropriate form leads to the death of plants or, in the best case, does not give a result at all. Nitrogen-containing mineral compounds introduced in the spring are represented by the following fertilizers:

• urea;
• ammonium nitrate;
• calcium nitrate.

Urea

Urea or urea is a nitrogen-containing fertilizer that replaces fresh manure. Urea contains 46% nitrogen. In agriculture, brand B. carbamide is used. Urea in urea is an amide form. After entering the soil in a reaction with microorganisms living in it, the substance passes into the ammonia form, then into the nitrate form.

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This sequence of micronutrient conversion contributes to the uniform feeding of all parts of the plant. In reaction with oxygen without incorporation into the soil, nitrogen from urea quickly passes into a gaseous state and erodes.

If you apply fertilizer in a dry form, simply by scattering it on the surface of the soil - there will be no effect. You can make urea in the form of root and foliar (through the leaves) top dressing. It is also worth considering that the fertilizer has an oxidizing effect, which in the future can adversely affect the condition of roses. In this regard, deoxidizers are used at the stages of its application.

It can be:

• chalk - 800 g / m²;
• wood ash - 400 g / m²;
• meat and bone meal - 300 g / m².

The above items are introduced a week before the application of urea and a week after. It is impossible to combine their use, since due to the high concentration of calcium, nitrogen is destroyed. Urea is introduced at the stage of kidney swelling after trimming, when the average daily temperature will be constantly maintained within +5 ... + 7 ° С. Estimated period: beginning - mid-April.

Urea root dressing can be carried out:

• aqueous solution - used in dry weather;
• the introduction of dry granules into the soil - used in rainy weather.

To prepare the solution, the proportion is maintained - 1 tbsp. l urea in 10 liters of water. For better dissolution, first the substance is diluted in 1-2 liters of water, and then the rest of the liquid is added. Contribute 1 l to the bush under the root.

Before applying the dry granules, you need to dig small trenches 5 cm deep around the rose bushes, at a distance of about 5-7 cm from the stem. In these trenches, granules are placed at the rate of 1 matchbox (13 g) of substance per 1 m of area. If the pellet application is carried out after rain, then the trenches need to be made deeper - 10-15 cm.

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Foliar top dressing is carried out if the roots are damaged, or when you need to urgently restore the balance of nitrogen, before the beginning of June. 4 g of substance are taken per 1 liter of water. The solution is mixed well and applied on a sheet of a finely divided spray. Manipulation is carried out only in cloudy weather, in the morning or in the evening.

Urea can be used as a prophylactic against diseases and pests. Processing of such a plan is carried out in early spring, immediately after pruning, before the buds are bent, with a concentrated solution, which is sprayed onto the plants themselves and introduced into the soil. The solution is prepared at the rate of 60 g of urea per 10 l of water. With this type of treatment, urea dressing is not carried out.

Ammonium nitrate

The composition of this fertilizer includes 34% nitrogen. Ammonium nitrate is used from the beginning of the vegetation phase until the end of June. It is rarely used on its own - phosphorus and potassium elements are added to the solution of ammonium nitrate, which allows the plants to provide good nutrition. Make a solution under the root. Prepare it at the rate of 1 tbsp. saltpeter per 7 l of water + 20 g of superphosphate + 3 tbsp. wood ash. This composition is enough to fertilize 1 rose bush.

Important! Ammonium nitrate is introduced only under the root. As a top dressing is not suitable.

A similar composition is made 20 days after the first feeding. The last time the solution is introduced in late autumn, before the shelters of the bushes - during this period, nitrogen is no longer absorbed by the roots. In the spring, with the active melting of snow, the roots will quickly begin to absorb moisture along with the nitrogen remaining in the soil, which will contribute to the healing and quick awakening of the kidneys.

Calcium nitrate

The fertilizer contains 13% nitrogen and 19% calcium. The advantage of this fertilizer is the possibility of its use at almost all stages of the vegetation of roses, due to the fact that the soil is not oxidized, as is the case when using 2 of the above nitrogen-containing compounds. Calcium contributes to the rapid absorption of nitrogen by all parts of the plant. Suitable for use even on acidic soils. Add calcium nitrate as the first root dressing after pruning rose bushes.The second time it is applied in the same way after 10 days. For watering, 1 g of substance is added to 1 liter of water - this will be enough for one bush. Subsequently, a composition of 2 g per 1 liter of water for foliar top dressing is used. Top dressing helps to form full-fledged greens, plays a role in laying buds, and also helps protect plants from various types of rot and pests. Fertilizer can be used before planting roses.

Important! Calcium nitrate is compatible with any fertilizer except simple superphosphate.

Organic Fertilizers for Roses

In the initial phase of the growing season, various types of manure can be used instead of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. The advantage is chicken and cow. You need to make them only in diluted or overripe form.

Chicken droppings

Applied chicken droppings:

• after pruning in the spring;
• in the event of a protracted spring in mid-May;
• at the beginning of the budding phase;
• after the first wave of flowering.

To prepare the liquid concentrate, dried chicken droppings are used. For 10 kg of litter add 20 l of water. Such a composition is insisted 2 weeks in a closed container. After infusion, the concentrate is mixed with water 1: 1 and used for watering plants at the rate of 10 l / m². For emergency replenishment of 10 liters of water add a handful of dry droppings or in granules.Knead the solution for 30 minutes, achieving maximum dissolution. Apply immediately after preparation at the rate of 10 l / m². Rotting litter along with litter can be used for incorporation into the soil in early spring, immediately after pruning the bushes. Litter is laid in a thin layer in the trunk circle. Then abundantly watered and mulch the soil with peat.

Cow infusion

Mullein is used as root and foliar dressing only in spring and until flowering begins. First, the mullein needs to be prepared and insisted. 5 l of water is added per 1 kg of manure. For decayed manure with litter, 3 l of water will be sufficient. The solution is insisted for a week, stirring daily. The concentrate is diluted with water 1: 3 before application.

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For root top dressing, the consumption is 3 l / m². After watering, the trunk circle must be mulched. For foliar top dressing, the concentrate is diluted 1: 5, be sure to first strain. Sprayed from a fine spray only in cloudy weather in the evening or in the morning, on the inside of the leaf plates.

Fertilizers with folk remedies

Recently, a popular top dressing is banana peel. It enriches the soil with potassium, calcium, magnesium and iron - these components have a beneficial effect on the laying of buds, contribute to increasing the immunity of plants. Apply it in the form of a powder in the budding phase. To do this, crushed peel is dried in the oven at + 100 ° C, and then rubbed into powder. Close up in the trunk circle for 1 tbsp. powder for each plant.Onion peel enriches the soil with vitamins and has a disinfecting effect, which allows the use of infusions with it at any phase of the growing season, as well as to combat aphids and fungal diseases. For 10 l of water, add 2 cups of tightly laid husk. The water is brought to a boil and immediately turned off, then the broth is insisted for 2 hours. Used for watering and spraying plants from the beginning of summer every 10 days.To reduce acidity and enrich the soil with calcium, apply eggshell. Top dressing can be applied before and after the use of nitrogen-containing compounds. The eggshell is dried in an oven at + 100 ° C, and then crushed into powder. Store in a cool, dry place. Make 1 tbsp.powder under the bush.Watering and spraying yeast solution can improve the condition of the soil, increase the absorption of nutrients by roots and leaves, and also extend the flowering phase. They are used at all stages of the growing season, starting from the period of budding. A pack of dry yeast (10 g) + 1 tbsp is added to 1 liter of warm (+ 30 ° C) water. Sahara. The solution is allowed to ferment. Then decanted and carry out watering or spraying on the inner surface of the sheet. It can be applied every 2 weeks.May to June you can use herbal compounds. To do this, for 8 kg of grass (nettle, alfalfa, dandelion and other greens), crushed together with the roots, take 10 liters of water. To this mixture add half a roll of rye stale bread and 2-3 tbsp. The raw materials are put under oppression and covered. Stand for a week. For root dressings, the concentrate is diluted with water 1:10, for foliar - 1:20. For each bush, spend 1 liter of working solution. The interval between feeding this type is 2 weeks.Ash from plant debris very useful for the plant body as a whole. It is used at all stages of the growing season. To exclude the influence of the ash composition on the acidity of the soil, a solution is used: 400 g for root dressing and 200 g for foliar are added to 10 liters of water. The diluted mixture is insisted for a week, then decanted. Contribute 1 liter to each plant. It can be used every 20 days.

Feeding roses with ready-made complex fertilizers

One of the cheap options for a ready-made universal complex fertilizer is nitroammophosk. It consists of 3 main elements necessary for the development of plants (nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus) + additional trace elements in smaller quantities. Apply it from April, after removing the shelters and pruning rose bushes, until early June.

Fertilizer is closed in a dry form to a depth of 3-5 cm, a handful for small bushes and 0.5 cups for large. Nitroammophosco can also be used in the form of an aqueous solution: 20-30 g of substance per 10 liters of water. In June, the soil is mulched with any organic matter with the addition of nitroammophoski in the same amount. In July, flowering plants are given foliar top dressing with a 1% nitroammophoska solution.

"Biocin" is a special complex fertilizer designed for roses. It contains not only all the necessary trace elements, but also a stimulant of immunity. After wintering, the drug is used for watering. Manipulate 3 times at weekly intervals. Dosage: 0.5–1 cap per 5 l of water; this amount is enough to water 1-2 bushes. Throughout the growing season, 1-2 times a month, spraying is performed according to the sheet: 1-2 caps of the drug are added to 5 liters of water.When fertilizing under rose bushes, the most important thing is to correctly observe the dosage. Adhering to the feeding regimen taking into account the phases of plant vegetation, you can not only improve their quality indicators, but also completely protect the site from the spread of diseases and pests.