The long flowering of hydrangea macrophylla (hydrangea macrophylla) and the exquisite beauty of its huge flower balls have long attracted the attention of flower growers. Among the many varieties, the luxurious variety in delicate pink colors of the 2015 selection by You & Me Love (You & amp; Me Love), won a gold medal from the British at the National Plant Show, won special love. Read about how to plant and grow this flower.
Plant description
Large Leaf Variety Series You & amp; Me is a series of terry species: Forever (Forever), Rowance (Romance), Tughezer (Together), Symphony (Symphony), Iternity (Eternity), Express (Expression) and Love (Love). The latter is distinguished by pale cream tones at the beginning of flowering, the brightness of which increases as it unfolds, creating the effect of two-color inflorescences.
Features of this repairing grade:
- frost resistance up to –29 ° С significantly increases the area of use of garden hydrangeas, which before its appearance did not have such quality;
- compact spherical bush in height and width does not exceed 1 m, in too cold conditions there is a slowdown in growth by half;
- strong, unbending, upright shoots can withstand up to 20 heavy inflorescences even in rainy weather. In July last year's lignified and new green branches bloom;
- densely arranged, large leaves (10–20 cm) of a saturated dark green color turn red and crumble at the end of October, when the rest period begins;
- small double flowers (3-5 cm), resembling river lilies in shape, are collected in densely packed corymbose inflorescences up to 25 cm in diameter;
- prolonged flowering with the presence of a faint delicate aroma until frost;
- the degree of pink color of flowers varies from light to saturated, the variety is able to change the cream palette from pale pink to purple-blue in soil with different acidity;
- well tolerates growing in containers or tubs;
- the variety requires shelter to preserve flower buds in cold areas and more thorough care than tree and panicled varieties.
Did you know? In the language of flowers, hydrangea symbolizes sincerity, purity and modesty, but in the Victorian era, the presented flower expressed coldness and indifference.
Use in landscape design
Combinations of shades of Yu & Mi Love will easily decorate any territory - from an extensive park to a meter-long lawn. The variety of colors and the beautiful shape of the bush makes it self-sufficient for single planting as a decoration of a small flower garden by the bench, filling the voids between the trunks of tall trees.
Large openwork inflorescences of the formed plant will allow you to properly dilute the greens and set seasonal accents in the garden, will soften the transition from the riot of summer colors to the soft autumn tones of asters and chrysanthemums. The plant looks great in a group planting in the garden: hydrangea flowers replace the flowering of lilacs, chubushnika, spirea, leaving no faded zones in the off-season.
The variability of using a lush shrub is great:
- Planting these bushes makes it possible to hide the corners of buildings. Planting is suitable as a hedge along the inner perimeter of the site or along the street. Diversifies its alternation with roses and hawthorn.
- Fashion dictates the reconstruction of the style of the Russian estate, and if the shady alleys with lindens take up too much space, then large-leaved hydrangea planted on both sides of the garden path comes to the rescue in a small area.
- The endurance of pastel inflorescences will not spoil the English strict style of a monochrome flower bed. One has only to plant a bush solo in the center or at an equal distance, arranging the colors of the remaining annual or perennial plants in one gamut. For example, to create a traditional British garden, plant different types of pink and white geraniums, rudbeckia with pink petals, decorative grass, completing the composition with a large hydrangea bush. Echinacea, phlox, physiostegia, anemones cannot be distinguished from the white-flowered partners. English landscape traditions will strengthen the presence of lawns, hedges, ivy-covered facade of the house.
- The thickly planted Yu & Mi Love, even when growing, will effectively combine with the natural canvas of cotoneaster, boxwood, and juniper. Of the shrubs that can emphasize the natural beauty of hydrangea, plant cypress trees, dogwood, Weigela, heather, barberry and mahonia.
- Rhododendron, peonies, dahlias, lilies, low roses, perennial asters will help to dilute the rigor of planting and revitalize the darkened corners.
- In the foreground, plant stonecrops, Volzhanka, Buzulnik, crocuses, Rogers. The proximity of aconite enhances the natural blue of hydrangea.
- Hydrangea loves water, so do not rule out the possibility of planting it near a reservoir. Hydrophilous plants such as lemon balm, mint, ivy, ferns, variegated hosta species, astilbe, incense and periwinkle will soften some heaviness, decorate the bush before and after flowering, shifting the emphasis to the species variety of leaf blades.
- This species is not suitable for vertical gardening of arbors and canopies; hydrangeas with petiolate and climbing tree varieties can cope with it, however, a horizontal ring of broad-leaved specimens around the arbor will emphasize the romantic mood of this place.
- The variety is appropriate on the site when creating stylish minimalism: it looks great like a laconic, albeit voluminous tapeworm in the center of a well-groomed lawn with trimmed lawn grass, wormwood or cereals, for example, fallis, miscanthus, millet, honekloloe.
- The joint planting of hydrangea and thuja will allow you to create massive three-dimensional compositions with knowledge of the basics of haircuts and modeling.
- Dwarf pines and similar conifers create harmony of the visible vertical in the floral composition and at the same time maintain a level of acidity that is comfortable for the plant.
- A hydrangea bush will bring thoughtful coziness into the variegated negligence of the garden in a simple rustic style with a carpet of bright flowers of daffodils, primroses, hellebores, daylilies, irises. Hydrangea will not cause a sense of excess with many planted beds if you place the plant in the usual rural household items: buckets, a large can, a watering can or a flower bed cart. Bench with a table, a well, a gazebo from a tree nearby will help to complement the composition. Container growing of this variety is an excellent alternative to the need to cover the bushes for the winter with several layers of insulation. In this form, it is convenient to transfer it for storage to a cool, well-lit place until warm, and when it occurs, install it at the intersection of paths, the veranda, steps of the porch or in the recreation area. Gravel filling a piece of land around several pots with hydrangeas will enhance the effect of the Mediterranean garden.
Important! Warm tones of yellow, red and orange colors cause a dissonance with cool tones of delicate pink hydrangea inflorescences. Do not plant them nearby!
Landing
An important stage is the planting of large-leaved hydrangea in open ground. Placing the plant should include the convenience of winter shelter and spring-summer care. Of great importance for the healthy development of the bush and its wintering is the correct choice of location and soil composition.
Landing rules
It is worthwhile to think over a place for planting in advance, taking into account basic knowledge about hydrangea preferences and factors of influence on its vegetation:
- Lighting should be bright. The abundant flowering of hydrangea will require a sufficient amount of sunshine of such intensity that a prolonged sunshine does not dry the plant. A slight shading will not hurt her, and in a constant shade, the flowering time will shift, the flowers are crushed. Position the plant so that direct rays do not fall on the lower part, while the upper one receives full sun baths for at least 6 hours a day. Morning sun with natural shading at noon has a beneficial effect on the splendor of inflorescences.
- Neighborhood with large trees is not recommended, as a large trunk and extensive roots will quickly absorb the moisture needed by a smaller plant. If the tree is not very close, its openwork shadow of the crown will provide additional protection from the sun. Airing is shown, but without through winds. With the function of protection against drafts, the proximity of a building wall or a solid fence will cope. For the same purpose, a single landing at the entrance to the house in a southeast or southwest direction is permissible.
- The soil must be spared lime, and desirable acidity level - approach the average value (5.5–7 pH). Hydrangea does not tolerate clay soils poorly - they hardly pass water, provoking weak growth and death in the heat. For loosening, retaining moisture and enhancing its nutrition, mix equal amounts of turf and leafy soil, add as much humus, peat, sand. For acidification, add 1 part of the beautiful needles; moisture is recommended in moderation, but hydrangea is required to provide it constantly. For this, good drainage is mandatory when planting, which will retain moisture longer. For the same purpose, it is advisable to immediately mulch the bush with sawdust or a dead leaf and control the soil moisture.
Important! Not all plants in the neighborhood can tolerate acidified soils acceptable for hydrangea. Before landing, carefully read the conditions of each.
- Landing time essential for successful rooting. In early spring, open buds may freeze, so flowering with such a planting should not be expected. In hot times, the vegetation of the bush slows down, in the fall it will not have time to take root before frost. The best time for landing is mid-April or late May - open ground warmed up, and frost behind. Any calm, non-warm, cloudy day will do. Autumn planting is possible for semi-lignified cuttings. In warm regions, it is permissible to plant them in September with at least 5 pairs of leaves, but only in greenhouse conditions. A film, a glass jar, a cut plastic bottle are suitable for their creation - rooting takes place in 2.5 weeks.
- Seedling Selection carried out in the nursery, the root system must be closed. A 2-3-year-old bush that sits firmly in a moist mixture of peat, sand and sawdust will take root best. Watering it will have to be plentiful until the moment of disembarkation. Do not soak or manually release the roots from a lump of earth and cut them - planting for the roots should go unnoticed.
- Distance between the bushes depends on the size of the future crown of hydrangea. When planting a variety of Yu and Mi Love, retreat at least 1 m on each side.
Step-by-step instruction
For better survival of the handle, it is necessary to dig the ground ahead of time and bring the missing elements to the planting site in order to fluff and fertilize.
Did you know? Buddhists traditionally make ritual tea “amacha” from hydrangea leaves, which, according to popular beliefs, magically affects a person, protecting them from evil spirits, snakes and insect bites.
To safely transfer the cuttings to open ground, follow the instructions:
- Dig a landing hole that exceeds the volume of the root system of the plant by 0.25 cm, up to 0.5 m in depth and width. If the seedling is small, 0.35 m in depth and as much in width will be enough.
- Cover the bottom of the pit with a layer of expanded clay, pebbles, gravel, sand, broken brick or ceramics. In heavy clay soils, increase drainage.
- Add to the pit part of the prepared soil mixture, on which place the roots, spreading them with your hands. At the same time, adjust the height of the root neck - it should remain at ground level.
- If necessary, raise a layer of fertile soil at the roots. Having well fallen asleep, add soil as compacted.
- Pour the plant with soft (settled, river or rain) water, pouring at least 15–20 liters under the bush.
- If the land is not fertile enough, apply organic and complex mineral fertilizers immediately after irrigation: add superphosphate (200 g), potassium sulfate (30 g), and ammonium sulfate (30 g) for spring planting for 10 liters of water. This will stimulate the appearance of flower buds of saturated color in the next season.
- Lay a layer of mulch (7-8 cm) from needles, pine bark, sawdust or humus and moisten constantly, avoiding overdrying.
- Regularly remove weeds, 2-3 times per season carefully, so as not to damage the still weak root system, loosen the soil to maintain its softness and provide oxygen access to the roots.
Care
To get fast growth and dense, dense inflorescences with large flowers, provide the bush with regular care. The main procedures are protecting the kidneys from burns in too bright and direct sunlight, constant watering, loosening, followed by mulching, pruning, top dressing, winter shelter.
In large-leaved varieties, which include Yu and Mi Love, shoots are grassy, therefore flexible. Large inflorescences on young bushes can bend branches in the rain and in strong winds. Young shoots will need a garter to the support.
To prevent branches from spreading on the ground, use a special holder, which can be purchased in the garden center. Hydrangea in a container will require a transplant immediately after flowering. The rest of the hydrangea is unpretentious and expected to bloom in late June or early July with a minimum of effort.
Watering
Even a short drought will negatively affect the moisture-loving bush: foliage turns yellow, curls, wilts, stems lose turgor, cracks appear in the ground. To avoid such consequences, moisten the ground with 1-2 buckets of water (up to 20 l) once a week. In the rainy season, water the hydrangea no more than twice a month to avoid overfilling.
The ideal solution would be drip irrigation if the water is soft, without lime and chlorine impurities harmful to the flower.
If it is impossible to use the river or rain, let the tap stand for half a day in the sun - heated water will do hydrangeas to the advantage. Periodically, it can be acidified before watering with lemon juice (50 drops per 10 l) or citric acid (1 tsp per 10 l).
Important! To approximate budding and flowering for almost a month, sprinkle hydrangea twice in April with a solution of gibberillins (50 mg per 1 liter) with a weekly interval.
The reaction of the soil can change the shade of inflorescences in the next season: if you water a solution of aluminum-potassium or ammonium-potassium alum (35 g per 10 l) once every 2 weeks, you can achieve a stable blue and violet color.
Top dressing
When fertilizing during planting, do not use fertilizers for the first two years. Next, alternate organics with mineral complexes. Suitable complexes for azaleas, heathers and rhododendrons. Well-proven specialized organic fertilizer ECO Style "Hortensia-AZ".
In the absence of time, it is possible to dispense with a single application in the soil at a temperature of + 6 ° C, immediately after the snow melts, granules of a mixture for prolonged hydrangea, for example Pokon, Agrekol, "Green Bool", ASB-Greenworld. The food consumption in this case will be gradual, and the supply of minerals will be enough for the bush for one or two seasons without additional feeding.
But it is better to correlate the feeding scheme with the phases of growth and development of hydrangea, not forgetting the general rules:
- Nitrogen fertilization favors the formation and growth of young shoots (20 g of urea per bush). Apply it twice from spring to mid-summer, supplement once a month with a solution of potassium permanganate (0.2 g per 10 l) to strengthen plant tissues and brighten pink inflorescences.Prepare a nitrogen infusion of herbs for fertilizer on their own: the mown green mass is infused in 10 liters of water for a week, after which it is bred twice and the bushes are shed.
- In June, nitrogen is not needed, for abundant budding it will be necessary to fertilize the bush with a composition with a predominance of potassium.
- To prolong flowering and bookmark flower buds for the next season, add the last feeding in August with a phosphorus component (superphosphate) to potash fertilizers.
- Since August, feeding is stopped and hydrangea is prepared for shelter.
- Feeding with ash and lime is prohibited.
- Excess organic matter will lead to root damage and yellowing of the foliage.
- Mulching with pine bark, coniferous litter, horse peat will help maintain soil acidity.
- The roots of seedlings of Dutch origin are not adapted for the self-collection of nutrients, feed them more often in the first month after planting, while gradually reducing the concentration of fertilizers for a gentle transition to normal maintenance.
- Indoor bush feed as soon as the buds are formed.
Important! An excess of mineral fertilizer leads to a deterioration in the winter hardiness of hydrangeas, and the disadvantage — to the lack of flowering.
Trimming and Shaping
Large-leaved varieties do not form up to 3-4 years of age; later on, insignificant pruning of thickening, damaged and weakened shoots in spring and autumn is needed. Thin hydrangea is thinned in April; diseased branches are best removed in the fall.
On the shoots of last year, flower buds are formed, so they try to save them. It is undesirable to remove faded umbrellas in autumn - in winter they protect flower buds from freezing. In the spring, dried inflorescences can be cut off above the highest bud. With the wrong pruning procedure, the bush may not bloom at all.
It is useful to follow the following rules:
- Do not water the plant for several days before pruning.
- Cut sick and dry shoots with a sharp sterile secateurs.
- Identify the main trunks, the number of which should not exceed 8 pcs.
- Extra, the oldest, along with small and thin, remove, leaving 5 branches on each of them to maintain a spherical shape.
- The old bush for rejuvenation is cut "on a stump", while flowering next summer is not worth the wait.
- It is necessary to sprinkle the slices with turmeric powder, cinnamon, crushed activated charcoal, or treat with brilliant green.
- You can water hydrangea a day after pruning, when the slices dry out a little.
Important! If the ends of the shoots of cut inflorescences are split and burned, while completely removing the leaves, the hydrangea bouquet will stay fresh longer.
Winter preparations
Large-leaved species are subject to freezing in severe winters. Grade Yu and Mi Love shows good vitality, but for the speedy restoration of decorativeness it should be covered.
To do this, perform the following actions:
- In dry weather in August or September, water the plant abundantly - this way it will more easily tolerate frosts.
- To prevent decay and diaper rash in September, spray the bush with a Bordeaux mixture.
- At the first October frosts, trunks should be spudded to a height of 30 cm.
- In November, the branches should be bent, secured near the ground and cover the bush with fallen leaves.
- Cover the plant from above with a box, agrofibre or film, securing it with arcs so that an air cushion remains. Be careful not to touch the kidneys.
- You can additionally sprinkle humus or peat around, suitable for spruce branches.
- In case of heavy snowfalls, add a snow shelter to the structure, each centimeter will protect the structure from 1 degree of frost. Thus, you will strengthen the barrier from the cold.
- At the end of winter, remove cover from the plant in a timely manner, starting with ventilation. As the snow melt and warm, gradually, layer by layer, free hydrangea from insulation and hilling.
If hydrangea is grown indoors, in the second half of September, rearrange the pot in a cool, dark place or on a windowsill without heating. Air temperature should not fall below + 6 ° C, a higher plant tolerates well.
Water rarely, 2-3 times a month to prevent drying out of a land lump. On sunny days of January or February, the first leaves will appear - a sign that watering should be increased.
Breeding
Breeders prefer the seed method of reproduction, but since the seeds do not ripen in the short summer of the middle strip, lovers have to choose between vegetative methods - cuttings, dividing the bush, propagating by layering.
Spring dividing the bush into 2-3 parts is used if the hydrangea is perennial, dense, large. This method is convenient for the planned transplant.
To do this, you must:
- Prepare a place in advance for another bush;
- water the plant abundantly and allow it to absorb moisture;
- dig a bush with a pitchfork, retreating from the trunks by 15 cm;
- tilt hydrangea and with a sharp shovel separate the part with 2-3 kidneys of renewal;
- sanitize the cut section with brilliant green, activated carbon, cinnamon;
- land the separated part in a prepared pit.
If you agree to tolerate until the next season, try to propagate hydrangea using the horizontal layering method in early spring, before buds open in March:
- last year's shoots should be bent to the ground;
- fix the branch with a non-rigid wire in the hole so that the shoot with the kidneys is partially in the soil;
- fill in the notch, leaving about 15 cm of the apical part outside;
- when the shoot increases to 20 cm, cover 1/3 of its length with earth;
- next spring it can be separated from the mother liquor and put it on a permanent place with shading.
Novelty Yu & Mi Love hardly managed to grow to the size necessary for reproduction by the described methods. therefore a suitable option would be the cuttings. A high percentage of survival provides him with popularity. It is easy to create a hedge with it from the apical part of the shoots of this year with only one bush of 2 years of age.
Did you know? During excavations in North America, archaeologists have discovered that hydrangeas existed as far back as 40 thousand years ago.
For such breeding to be successful, and after two weeks the roots have formed, it is necessary:
- in early spring, choose already lignified shoots or green ones during the period of July flowering, with at least two internodes;
- cut them so as to save a couple of centimeters last year’s growth;
- remove all lower leaves, and cut off the upper half;
- powder the bottom with stimulants of root formation ("Kornevin", "Heteroauxin");
- plant at a distance of 5 cm from each other in a moist substrate of 2 parts of peat and 1 part of river sand. The moisture content of the substrate will enhance the top layer of sphagnum moss;
- deepen the cuttings by 2-3 cm at a slight angle;
- cover with a film or a jar;
- keep landing at a temperature of +15 ... + 20 ° С in a light shadow.
Diseases and Pests
In general, the Yu & Mi Love variety is resistant to many diseases and quickly recovers even after freezing.
Did you know? The Japanese character for hydrangea literally translates as "a flower that looks like a purple sun."
But with weakened immunity and violations of the rules for care, he faces some difficulties:
- with excess moisture and lack of access to sunlight, hydrangea suffers from powdery mildew - the trunk is affected by dark spots, oily to the touch. The effect will be given by spraying with fungicides (“Khom”, “Topaz”, “Fitosporin”) or a solution of copper and green soap (15 l of water, 15 g of sulfate, 150 g of soap);
- a red coating on the foliage indicates when rust, at its first signs, spray the greens with copper sulfate;
- chaotically growing dark spots of brown shades and whitish bloom mean defeat Septoria or white rot. You can deal with it by reducing irrigation, treatment with copper sulfate, Fitosporin or other fungicides;
- root rot caused by poorly drained soil and plant bays, a solution of potassium permanganate introduced into the soil will help;
- because of the dryness of the air, the ends of the leaves dry, the heat (+ 30 ° C and above) will cause the plant to drop the leaves, and the absence of a slight shadow will lead to the appearance of light spots, drying out of the roots and wilting of flowers;
- alkaline soils with indicators over 8 pH lead to chlorosis. You can deal with it by acidifying the soil with a solution of potassium nitrate (4 g per 1 liter), after 3 days, pour a solution of iron sulfate in the same concentration;
- of pests for hydrangea is terrible spider mite. It appears in dry weather and plaits the back of the leaf plate, which soon dries and falls. Spray with acaricides, such as Actellic;
- hydrangeas are prone to invasion greenhouse thrips, aphids, bedbugsattacked golden bronzes and furry deereating buds. A single use of any available insecticide will cope with them - use, Iskra, Taran, Komandor, Lightning;
- snails often damage leaves and buds. To combat them, collect and destroy their masonry, use preparations from the clams Meta, Thunderstorm;
- in winter the shoots are amazed mice. Traps and the laying out of special poisons will help them.
It is not difficult to achieve flowering: follow all the recommendations for caring for this plant. Then Hydrangea Yu & Mi Love will give Victorian magic to your garden, turning it into a paradise.